Sometimes, you discover places that don’t just leave a lasting impression but draw you in completely – places where you immediately feel at home. For me, Vancouver Island and the surrounding coastal region are just that. The ancient rainforests, rugged coastline, long sandy beaches, and the constant presence of the sea make this area truly unique – a place I can’t wait to return to time and again.
For three weeks, we traveled from Vancouver along the Sunshine Coast, across Vancouver Island, and into the foothills of the Coast Mountains. Hoping to see as much wildlife as possible, we chose to visit Canada in August. This time of year, the waters off Vancouver Island are teeming with whales, and the salmon runs make it the perfect season for spotting bears and other wildlife.
Since we planned to hike parts of the West Coast Trail and needed a tent for this multi-day trek anyway, we decided to camp throughout the entire trip. It wasn’t always comfortable, and some nights were colder than we expected for summer, but waking up each morning surrounded by nature made it all worth it.
Vancouver
Our journey along the coast of British Columbia began in Vancouver, where we spent two nights immersing ourselves in the vibrant city. Due to the high cost of accommodation, we opted to stay at the Cambie Hostel Seymour in downtown Vancouver. Although the rooms were fairly basic, the hostel’s central location was unbeatable, allowing us to reach the city’s main attractions easily on foot.
With only one full day to explore, we decided to rent bikes for the entire day, taking advantage of Vancouver’s good network of bike lanes. The weather was perfect as we spent the morning cycling through Stanley Park, Canada’s largest urban park, and enjoying the stunning views along its scenic seawall.
From Stanley Park, we rode our bikes all the way to Granville Island, a vibrant artistic and cultural hub along the waterfront. Once an industrial area, it’s now a lively destination brimming with art shops, cultural events, and a bustling public market offering all kinds of delicious food.
By late afternoon, we decided to pick up everything we needed for a picnic at the Public Market, including my favorite dish, maple-glazed salmon. With our bags full of tasty treats, we hopped back on our bikes and headed toward the city center. Vancouver’s beaches come alive in the evening, filling with people meeting after work, playing volleyball, or, like us, settling in to enjoy the sunset. As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in stunning colors, we rode our bikes back along the waterfront. The peaceful, scenic ride was the perfect end to an unforgettable day in Vancouver.
Nelson Island
On the next morning, we picked up our rental car and left the city, crossing the Lions Gate Bridge and heading north. We were thrilled to spend the next three days on Nelson Island, a secluded spot accessible only by boat. Our journey began with a short ferry ride from Horseshoe Bay to Langdale, followed by a drive up the coast to Earl’s Cove, where our host met us at the pier. After loading our luggage and supplies for the next few days onto his boat, we set off across the water. Just 20 minutes later, we spotted our new “home” nestled among the trees on the shoreline. We couldn’t believe how lucky we were to have this beautiful place all to ourselves for the next two nights.
Our accommodation was a spacious tent with a separate bathroom and an outdoor kitchen, offering all the comforts we needed while being immersed in nature. To explore the area, we had access to two stand-up paddleboards and a kayak, which we immediately put to use. And, to our delight, we weren’t entirely alone – an inquisitive seal, which we named Humphrey, seemed to call the waters in front of our tent home. Over the next few days we often saw him sticking his head out of the water, as if to check us out.
It wasn’t until a few hours later, when high tide rolled in, that we fully realized just how secluded our spot on the island was. At its peak, the rising water completely surrounded our tent, making it impossible to leave. But we didn’t mind. As rain and thunder moved in, we lit the gas stove on the deck, wrapped ourselves in blankets, and listened to the soothing rhythm of raindrops on the water while glancing out to see if Humphrey might appear.
I could have easily spent more days on the island, as there was so much to see and discover. We hiked into the forest to explore the interior of the island, searched the shallow waters for starfish and sea cucumbers at low tide, or simply watched the seagulls as they scoured the shore for their own starfish finds. But soon it was time for our next adventure, and when the boat came to pick us up, we were sad to say goodbye to our island idyll.
telegraph cove
To reach our next destination, we had two ferry rides ahead of us. First, we took the ferry from Earl’s Cove to Saltery Bay, and after a short drive, we boarded another ferry from Powell River to Comox on Vancouver Island. Since we were traveling during the high season, we had reserved all our ferry rides in advance with BC Ferries. While this meant sticking to our schedule more strictly, it gave us the peace of mind of having a guaranteed spot – something that’s not always available if you show up spontaneously during peak season, especially when traveling with a car.
From Comox, it took us another three hours by car to reach one of my favorite spots on Vancouver Island – the charming village of Telegraph Cove. In the winter months, only a handful of people live in this tiny settlement, but in the summer, it welcomes visitors from all over – and for good reason. The waters around Telegraph Cove are rich in nutrients, attracting an incredible array of wildlife to the area.
We stayed at Cluxewe Campground, a place I’ve visited before and will happily return to again and again. This peaceful campsite offers spots right along the edge of a shallow bay, making it a perfect base for nature lovers. If you’re lucky, you might spot some of the wildlife that frequently visits the area, from bald eagles to bears and even wolves. After setting up our tent, we spent the evening watching fishers casting for salmon, which leapt out of the water right in front of them, while soaking in the stunning view across the bay.
The next day we had an exciting adventure planned – a trip with Tide Rip Tours to look for grizzly bears along the coast of Knight Inlet, British Columbia’s longest fjord. But when we woke up at 6 a.m., it was pouring. Spending an entire day on a boat in this weather wasn’t exactly appealing, but we weren’t about to let the rain spoil our plans. We threw on our rain gear and headed to Telegraph Cove, ready to make the best of our tour despite the drizzle.
Knight Inlet is framed by steep, forested mountains, with waterfalls flowing down cliffs into turquoise glacial waters. The area is teeming with wildlife, from eagles and seals to whales, giving it a remote and unspoiled feel. Today, however, the landscape was veiled in thick fog, limiting our view to just a few metres. At first, I was a little disappointed by the obscured scenery, but it didn’t take long to appreciate the mystical atmosphere the fog added to the landscape.
Then, we finally spotted our first grizzly along the shore – and it wasn’t the last for the day. In total, we saw seven grizzly bears, including a few cubs, all foraging for food along the shore. We couldn’t believe our luck, and although it was tricky to photograph in the rain, we managed to capture some beautiful shots.
After an exciting morning of bear watching, we stopped for lunch in a tiny, picturesque stilt village by the water. The rain was still coming down hard, soaking us every time we stepped outside – but staying in wasn’t an option with so much to see. After lunch, we headed back to the main channel, ready to look for more wildlife, and wow, did it deliver! It felt like humpback whales were everywhere, their spouts rising all around us. When the rain finally stopped, we moved to the outside deck, watching porpoises dive and leap in front of the boat and sea lions basking on the rocks. Canada is truly wild!
We returned to Telegraph Cove in the afternoon and spent some time exploring the area around our campsite. To our delight, the sun finally broke through the clouds, revealing the area in all its beauty and setting the stage for a stunning sunset as we enjoyed our dinner. I absolutely love this place!
SAN JoseF BAY
After two nights in Telegraph Cove, we said our goodbyes and headed north to explore Cape Scott Provincial Park, the northernmost part of Vancouver Island. This remote wilderness is known for the challenging North Coast Trail, often called even tougher and more secluded than the famous West Coast Trail. We decided to keep it simple and opted for a short hike to San Josef Bay, planning to camp overnight on the beach. It was the perfect chance to test our gear and see how well we’d manage with our setup.
The drive from Telegraph Cove took about three hours, mostly along a gravel road, before we finally reached the trailhead. After paying the park fee at a small box near the entrance, we set off towards the beach. The hike itself wasn’t long – just 2.5 kilometers – but I absolutely loved every step through the old-growth rainforest. It was like walking straight into a fairy tale!
Soon, we reached the beach and picked a nice, secluded spot to set up our tent, conveniently close to a bear container. In bear country, campsites in Canada provide either bear-proof boxes or ropes to hang your food high off the ground. It’s important to use these storage options since food and even toiletries like toothpaste can attract bears. Proper storage helps keep both humans and wildlife safe, so we made sure to pack everything securely in the provided container.
While the beach where we camped was undeniably beautiful, the real magic of this place revealed itself when we finally accessed “Second Beach.” This hidden gem lies behind the first beach and is only accessible at low tide – otherwise, the ocean blocks the way.
At dawn, we crossed the passage to Second Beach and were blown away by its beauty. The rugged coastline was teeming with life, from vibrant anemones to tiny snails, star fish, and my favorite – the barnacles. There was so much to explore, and it felt like stepping into another world entirely.
After a good night’s sleep, we woke up bright and early – around 6 a.m. – to pack up our tent, hike back to the car, and drive all the way to Telegraph Cove for a very special “date.” 😉 By 11:30 a.m., we were about to be picked up by our guides to start the next part of our adventure: a four-day kayaking trip through the stunning Johnstone Strait.
Kayaking in the johnstone strait
The Johnstone Strait is a 110-kilometer-long waterway on the northeast coast of Vancouver Island, renowned for its rich marine life. Along its shores lies the Robson Bight (Michael Bigg) Ecological Reserve, a sanctuary dedicated to protecting the critical habitat of Northern Resident Killer Whales. These majestic creatures are frequently spotted in the Johnstone Strait, particularly during the summer months when they come to feed or socialize.
Although access to the reserve itself is prohibited to ensure minimal disturbance to the whales, the surrounding waters offer excellent opportunities for observing orcas. It’s a sight we eagerly hoped to encounter during our 4-day kayaking tour with Spirit of the West Adventures.
After arriving at our pick-up spot, we met our guides and the rest of the group. Once our luggage was loaded onto the boat, we set off on a short journey to West Cracroft Island, a secluded island in the Johnstone Strait. Our camp was located on rocky terrain overlooking the water, blending perfectly with the natural surroundings. The camp was thoughtfully designed with sustainability in mind, keeping things simple yet functional. It was a comfortable and peaceful place, and we enjoyed every minute of our time here!
The days we spent at our island retreat were full of adventure. Each day, we set out in our kayaks to explore the surrounding waters, keeping an eye out for wildlife both in the sea and along the rocky shores. Since I’d only kayaked once before, I was a bit nervous at first, but it turned out I didn’t need to worry. The guides were fantastic – explaining everything in detail and staying close by, which made every moment out on the water a fun and memorable experience.
While we didn’t encounter any whales up close during our kayaking trips, we were fortunate to spot numerous orcas from camp as they swam through the strait, searching for food. It was a truly incredible experience to watch these beautiful animals in their natural habitat and to be able to observe them from land.
Another highlight I really enjoyed was a visit to a nearby cove, where we met volunteers from the marine conservation organization Cetus. They’re dedicated to reducing the harmful disturbances to whales caused by human activities, especially vessel traffic. After a short hike, we reached their land-based observation platform. From there, we not only watched whales passing through the strait, but also learned about the important work the organization does to protect British Columbia’s marine life.
Although I enjoyed every moment of our stay, the experience that stands out the most – a memory I’ll never forget – was when we set out in the kayaks in the dark. At first it felt a little creepy to be out on the open water in complete darkness, but that unease quickly turned to absolute amazement. The water came alive with bioluminescence, shimmering faintly with each stroke of our paddles. I couldn’t stop dipping my hand into the water, mesmerised as tiny sparks of light swirled around my fingers.
And as we glided across the calm surface, the silence was suddenly broken by the unmistakable sound of orcas blowing in the distance. Although we couldn’t see them, knowing they were nearby made the experience all the more special. The glowing water and the sound of these animals together created a moment that felt both surreal and magical.
Once back on land, everyone headed to bed, but we weren’t quite ready to let the moment end. Wrapping ourselves in blankets, we stayed outside, letting the stillness of the night and the sound of the whales wash over us as they moved through the waters around camp. Moments like these leave you in absolute awe of nature and the incredible species we share the planet with.
Tofino & Ucluelet
After four days on the water, we were back on solid ground and heading toward the west coast of Vancouver Island to visit Ucluelet and Tofino. Since the drive all the way to Tofino was a bit too long for one day, we decided to spend a night at the Surfjunction Campground in Ucluelet.
Compared to Tofino, which becomes a bustling tourist hotspot in the summer, Ucluelet has a quieter, more relaxed vibe. Its charming little shops and cozy cafés near the water make it a lovely place to explore. That said, the two towns are only about 30 minutes apart, so it’s easy to enjoy the best of both worlds in a single trip.
In Tofino, we stayed at Bella Pacifica Campground, conveniently situated right on McKenzie Beach, making it an ideal spot to enjoy the oceanfront.
The next day was all about exploring the surroundings of Tofino. After a nice breakfast at our campsite, we headed into town for a pre-booked Zodiac whale watching tour.
Not quite sure what to expect, we dressed in full body suits and goggles – looking more like extras from a sci-fi movie than wildlife enthusiasts – and boarded the Zodiacs. And it didn’t take long for us to realise why the equipment was necessary: the boat sped across the open ocean, each wave sending us into the air before we landed with a thud. It was exciting at first, but after a while it became physically exhausting and not very comfortable.
We hurtled across the water for what seemed like an eternity, looking for whales – with no luck. On the way we passed a group of sea otters, which I would have liked to watch for longer, but the boat wouldn’t slow down.
Eventually we turned back towards the coast and finally spotted some grey whales feeding in the shallows. While it was amazing to see them, the overall experience felt a little underwhelming. Most of the trip was spent racing over the waves and we learned little about the wildlife or ecosystem around us.
Next time I’d choose a trip that focuses more on education, conservation and a slower pace. Whale watching is special, but Tofino has so much more to offer – it’s not just about the adrenaline rush.
After our trip, we headed to Cox Bay, renowned for being one of the best surfing spots on Vancouver Island and my favorite beach on the island. However, we weren’t there to surf but to hike up to the Cox Bay Lookout. This short hike up the mountain offers incredible views of the coast and surrounding bays, and we couldn’t believe how beautiful it was. The trail was quite muddy, and there were a few spots where we had to climb, but overall, the hike was manageable. At the top, we enjoyed our packed dinner while watching the landscape change under the setting sun. It was an absolute highlight and definitely not to be missed.
The west coast trail
Finally, the moment had arrived – we were off to tackle the West Coast Trail, something I had been looking forward to for months before our trip. Since this was our first time attempting a multi-day hike with overnight camping, we decided not to do the full route. Instead, we started halfway, in Nitinaht Village.
Originally, our plan was to hike from there all the way to Pachena Bay, but we decided on the spot to spend two nights at Tsusiat Falls and then retrace our steps back to Nitinaht Village. If you’re unsure about tackling half the trail or prefer to take things at a more relaxed pace, this is a great option – especially for first-time hikers. However, having loved every bit of the trail, I’d definitely choose to hike half or even the entire route next time I visit Vancouver Island.
The trail itself is demanding – it remained muddy throughout our three-day hike, despite good weather. In some places, we sank ankle-deep into the mud. Beyond the mud, the trail is dotted with exposed roots, broken boardwalks, and steep ladders. While this terrain is challenging enough on its own, it becomes even more so when carrying a fully loaded pack. Despite packing as minimally as possible for just two nights, our gear still weighed around 12 kg, making certain sections, like climbing ladders, particularly tough. Bringing hiking poles and gaiters turned out to be an excellent decision – I wouldn’t attempt the trail without them.
Yet, these very challenges are what make the West Coast Trail so special. The area is incredibly beautiful, with opportunities to spot wildlife such as whales and bears along the way. If the trail were easy (and permits were unlimited), it would attract far more people, diminishing the sense of remoteness and adventure that make it such a unique experience.
Hiking
The West Coast Trail
The West Coast Trail is a renowned 75-kilometer multi-day backpacking route along the rugged western coast of Vancouver Island. This historic trail follows ancient paths and paddling routes once used for trade and travel by First Nations, and it traverses their traditional territories to this day. Open to visitors from May 1 to September 30, the trail requires a permit, which should be reserved well in advance due to its popularity. Completing the trail typically takes 6–8 days, depending on your fitness level and pace.
The trail is remote and challenging, with minimal facilities along the way. Apart from basic long-drop toilets, there are no amenities, so hikers must be fully self-sufficient and pack all necessary supplies for the journey. While rivers and waterfalls along the trail provide water sources, it is essential to thoroughly purify the water before drinking.
Before starting your hike, you’ll be required to watch a safety video and attend a briefing to prepare for the adventure. Parks Canada will provide you with a trail map and tide charts, both of which can be obtained at the trailheads. For detailed information and to make reservations, visit the Parks Canada website, which offers excellent resources to help you plan your trip.
We spent the night before starting the trail at Nitinaht Campground, a beautiful spot nestled among towering trees and located right next to Nitinaht Lake. The setting was serene, though amenities were basic, with just long-drop toilets and no showers. That evening, we carefully packed everything we’d need for the trail, ensuring we were ready for the adventure ahead.
Early the next morning, we attended an orientation session at the trail office. Here, we were given a map of the trail and asked a few questions to confirm everyone was comfortable navigating with it. Once everything was sorted, the BC Parks staff took us to the dock, where we boarded a boat bound for the Crab Shack. This charming spot, located roughly halfway along the West Coast Trail, offers hikers a place to eat or spend the night.
As we arrived at the shack, we spotted a black bear wandering along the shoreline – a reminder of the wild, untamed beauty of the area. Soon, we would be joining him in exploring this incredible landscape.
Once the boat dropped us off, we began our hike, and it quickly became clear that the mud and broken boardwalks were going to be challenging obstacles along the way. Despite this, the surroundings were stunning, with breathtaking views at every turn. Before long, we reached our first ladder leading down to the beach. I think the pictures speak for themselves. 😊
One of the great things about the trail is that you can often choose between walking through the woods or along the beach. Since it was scorching hot on our first day, we opted to spend most of our time in the woods—walking on sand under the blazing sun can be incredibly exhausting!The forest offered cool, shady relief, but it came with its own challenges. The mud and tangled roots slowed us down, and we were always aware of the possibility of encountering wildlife, especially bears. Since we only had a bear bell and no bear spray, we made up for it by singing – a lot. It might not have been nice to listen to, but it was our way of letting any bears know we were nearby!
Though we didn’t spot any bears, we did come across fresh scat on the trail – a clear reminder they weren’t far off. Many other hikers we met later did see one, though. So, learn from our experience and make sure to pack bear spray – it’s worth the peace of mind!
By the afternoon, we finally reached Tsusiat Falls, our home for the next two nights. When we arrived, a few other hikers had already set up camp, so we wandered around, looking for the perfect spot to pitch our tent. The atmosphere in the camp was amazing – calm, friendly, and almost like a little community. On the shore, the driftwood had been used to create small “parzellen,” like miniature garden plots, adding a cozy touch to the place. But without a doubt, the best part of this camp was the falls themselves, just a short walk away. Not only could we take a refreshing bath beneath the cascading water, but it was also the perfect spot to refill our water supply.
It was such a stunning and unique place, and we couldn’t have been happier to spend two whole nights here. It felt like a well-earned reward after the journey so far.
We spent the rest of the afternoon and evening soaking in the waterfalls, “cooking dinner” (which basically meant heating up water for our ready-made trail meals), and watching the incredible sunset as the day slowly came to an end. It was simple but perfect.
Since we were staying two nights at Tsusiat Falls, we decided to pack light for a day hike along the coast on the next day. Our plan was to hike to the nearby river with a cable car crossing, then continue to around kilometer 20 to explore some of the historic shipwrecks before heading back to camp. The weather was stunning once again, with clear skies and bright sunshine, so we set out in high spirits.
When we reached the cable car, it looked straightforward enough: pull it to our side, hop in, and pull ourselves across. Simple, right? Not quite. What initially seemed like an easy task turned out to be surprisingly exhausting! The effort of pulling ourselves along the cable had us taking little breaks to catch our breath. But honestly, we didn’t mind – every pause was a chance to take in the breathtaking views around us.
Once on the other side, we headed to the beach, where we found a little driftwood cave that offered shade – a perfect spot for lunch. While we sat there, to our utter excitement, we spotted the telltale blow of a whale in the distance! What an incredible sight!
What I loved about this section of the trail was how much the landscape changed. Earlier, the beaches had been long stretches of sand, but now we were walking among massive boulders. It was such a welcome change – not sinking into sand with every step made the hike far more enjoyable!
Once we reached km 20, we took a moment to soak it all in before heading back to camp. Returning to Tsusiat Falls felt like coming home, and we were thrilled to spend another night at such a beautiful spot.
With only 7.5 km left to hike back to the boat pick-up at Nitinaht Narrows on the next day, we didn’t feel the need to rush. By the time we opened our tent, most of the other hikers had already set off. To our amazement, the weather had changed overnight and a thick layer of fog had settled over the area.
At first I was a little disappointed by the limited visibility, but that feeling soon passed. The damp, firm sand made walking much easier, and the mist created an atmosphere that felt almost otherworldly. The landscape had taken on a muted, monochromatic tone, with the sun faintly glowing through the clouds. Trees and rocks appeared as shadowy silhouettes in the distance. It was incredibly peaceful and quiet, and I loved every moment of our hike! As if the serene setting wasn’t enough to make my day, I suddenly spotted a Grey whale just a few meters from the beach. At first, I couldn’t believe my eyes, but after waiting patiently, I saw it surface again, blowing a plume of misty spray into the air. What an unforgettable encounter!
Once we reached Nitinaht Narrows, a boat took us back to the Crab Shack. Even though we hadn’t completed the entire trail – or even half of it – we felt an immense sense of pride and happiness. This experience was, without a doubt, my favorite part of the entire trip. I know I’ll be back someday – whether to complete half or even the entire trail. 😊
Salt Spring Islands
As our time on Vancouver Island came to an end, we made one last detour before heading back to the mainland: Salt Spring Island. Known for its vibrant arts scene, organic farmers’ markets, and relaxed, bohemian atmosphere, it felt like a completely different world.
For the next two days, we immersed ourselves in the island’s charm. We visited cozy farm stands for the juiciest, most flavorful tomatoes, treated ourselves to fresh local goods at the farmers’ market, and stopped by a cider brewery for a well-deserved drink. After over two weeks of camping and an endless rotation of pasta with tomato sauce, it was a dream come true for our taste buds. And just when we thought things couldn’t get any better, the fire ban was lifted – the first time on our trip – which meant we finally could enjoy classic s’mores around the campfire. Because, let’s face it, no camping trip is complete without them.
The COAST MOUNTAINS
Early in the morning, we boarded the ferry from Salt Spring Island to Vancouver, marking our very last ferry ride after countless crossings during our trip. And it was a perfect finale. The water was so calm, with a soft layer of fog gently resting on the trees, creating a breathtaking atmosphere. It felt like the island was saying goodbye with one last beautiful show.
Driving along the Sea-to-Sky Highway, we made our way to Callaghan Lake, about 20 km south of Whistler. Since it was peak season and we hadn’t booked a campsite, we were hoping to find a spot for the night here. The small, backcountry campground doesn’t require reservations and operates on a first-come, first-served basis.
Unsure if we’d be lucky enough to secure one of the few available sites, we tackled an 8 km dirt road, only suitable for high-clearance vehicles. Fortunately, we managed to grab the last spot and spent a stunning day and peaceful morning in this remote wilderness – right in the heart of grizzly bear country.
With one last night before heading back to Vancouver and civilization, we decided to venture further north and spend the last night at Birkenhead Lake Provincial Park. Compared to Callaghan Lake, this campground is much larger, but thanks to its beautiful forested setting near the lake, it still felt peaceful and remote. A nearby wildfire – thankfully under control – added an eerie yet beautiful touch to the landscape, as the smoke created a layer of fog over the water, making the lake look even more mysterious. A great place to say goodbye to my beautiful Canada.
However, as always, we weren’t ready to call it a day just yet. So, before heading back to Vancouver, we decided to squeeze in one final hike – stretching our adventure right up to the last possible minute. 😂 Shortly after leaving Whistler, we drove to the Cheakamus Lake Trail and hiked all the way to Singing Creek Campground. The trail is an easy walk, winding through beautiful forests and running alongside the stunning turquoise waters of Cheakamus Lake. If you are in the area, this trail – or even the backcountry campground – is definitely worth a visit!
Looking back at our three-week trip, it’s mind-blowing how many places we visited and how different each experience was. Yet, one thing that connected it all was our constant proximity to the water. Almost every night, we fell asleep to the sound of the ocean, and each morning began with our first coffee, taking in the view across the waves. Out of everything, I think I miss those peaceful moments by the water the most. See you soon, beautiful Canada. ❤️
